The East side of Salton Sea
The Bredas have the adventure of a lifetime in this unique destination
Salton Sea is rapidly evaporating but there is still time to see and play while you marvel at its beauty and variety. California’s largest lake is 35 miles long, 15 miles wide, 50 feet deep, 227 feet below sea level and 25 per cent saltier than the Pacific. It is filled with life, even though it is in the desert.
The Salton Sea had its beginnings millions of years ago when three massive tectonic plates converged. Water flow and climate shaped the basin, creating one of the most diverse regions in the world. The area contains an amazing range of plants and animals. It continues to change today. Over the past year it has lost a foot of water equaling millions of gallons. Name your interest and you will probably find a chance to pursue it in the Salton Sea area. Ancient history, bat caves, camping, conservation, fishing, geology—right through the alphabet—it is all here. Let’s concentrate on just a few of the more unusual things you might see or do in this fascinating spot.
Where to set up camp
The choice of where you set up is yours. You can stay in your own camper at a RV resort with all the bells and whistles, or boondock in Slab City or a BLM site. Each has its charms. Bring your dirt bike, ATV, camera, boat or float, fishing rod (you need a valid California fishing license), golf clubs, hiking boots, bathing suit and a good bird book. Don’t forget a good book, folding chair and sun screen for those lazy days when all you want to do is kick back and enjoy the sun. Bring the kids and do some kite flying; let them earn a Junior Ranger Badge at the Salton Sea State Recreation Areas south of North Shore on CA 111; enjoy a campfire on the beach and watch the sunset. You will also find campgrounds and RV parks all along the seafront.
For the most beautiful view of the sea you can’t beat Salton Sea State Recreational Area. Here you will find very easy access to the sea itself, a great visitor centre, barbecue facilities and a campground with hook-ups. Across the road and over the railroad tracks is the nature preserve, Dos Palmas, with the Orocopia Mountains to the north and the Chocolate Mountains southeast of the Preserve.
Other fascinating locales
Do you prefer a pool, massage, café and lots of friendly people? Fountain of Youth Spa fits the bill. On the same road are two other RV parks, a KOA and another mineral spa which is smaller. If roughing it is your thing, go further south on CA 111 until you reach Nilan, turning left at the only stone house. A few miles past the railroad tracks will bring you to a bright vision of colour on your right. Salvation Mountain announces itself very visually. Down the road from it is Slab City—you can’t miss either of these unique places.
If you plan to stay and camp, make sure you have all the water you will need as there is no place to get it on site. This is boondocking with other people around. Not ready to park yet? There are some RV Parks further south on CA 111. Calipatria has a motel, a library and a supermarket, and in the town of Brawley, you will find a Wal-Mart and other supermarkets.
You can then turn onto CA 86 and 78 to begin the return north to the edge of Salton Sea or go to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park to the west. Swimming is quite safe as the sea is not polluted and is cleaner than Lake Tahoe. However, conditions do change, so check before jumping in. The fish are plentiful. Saline-tolerant tilapia were introduced from east Africa many years ago and they are here in large quantities, so come on down and catch a few.
Appreciate the unusual
If the unusual sparks your curiosity, just east of Nilan, across two sets of railroad tracks, is Salvation Mountain. Visit with Leonard Knight, who will tell you why he has spent decades building this mountain from adobe and recycled desert castoffs. Then travel a short distance to Slab City, either to camp or just to see this free-spirited community.
This place is boondocking only, so if you plan to stay, know that there is no water, electricity or sewer. There is a community spirit here without the restrictions of a privately owned park yet there is a feeling of order here too. They have a library, café, religious services, mineral spa, shower, band and Saturday night dancing.
A few miles south of Nilan on CA 111, turn right at Shrimph Road and left at Davis Road to see the privately owned mud volcanoes. Visitors on foot are allowed. Please do not leave anything here and treat the land with respect. Park your car on the side of Davis Road and listen. You will hear them perking. Then walk in a few meters (yards) to get up close and be intrigued by the mud volcanos. Some are as high as eight feet (2.4 meters). Watch the hot mud fly up to increase the mounds; see the steam rise and you may just feel you have fallen back in time. Back in your vehicle on Davis to Shrimph, turn right onto the second dirt road. This takes you to Garst Road. A right turn faces a shorebird domain.
Natural spectacles
Turn left, cross the bridge, and Red Hill is the next wonder. You will find a campground and what was once a marina here. The evaporation of the sea left the marina high and dry, unfortunately. In the 1950s, a “Salton Riviera” was begun only to peter out because of the receding water. Only a few flamingos and the State Recreational Area remain today.
There are four dormant volcanoes in the vicinity; Rock Hill, Mullet Island, Obsidian Butte and Red Hill. All four are located on the southeastern side of the sea within the boundaries of the Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge’s mission is to provide habitat for migrating and wintering waterfowl and endangered species. It also provides feeding, resting, and nesting for shorebirds and diverse wildlife.
Both the Yuma clapper (breeding) and the California brown pelican are to be found here. This is one of the very few places that both the white and the brown pelicans inhabit. Birding this area is amazing as the sea has the second highest count of different species in the nation. More than 400 species have been reported, including breeding species. Come to the Visitor Center at Sonny Bono Salton Sea NWR to be amused by the Gambrel quail and the rabbits who own the place. They ignore humans as they pursue their busy lives eating, running, eating, drinking, eating and running. If you are lucky, the resident barn owl, who lives in a palm tree, will allow you to check him out while he checks you out.
If you are intrigued by renewable energy, the large buildings spouting white smoke are not polluting the atmosphere, they are releasing steam that is being used to create energy for the surrounding areas. Geothermal hot fluids with temperatures exceeding 680 °F (360°C) at 8,000 feet (2,400 metres) beneath the ground provide super-heated steam to power plants built in the Imperial Valley. They produce electricity for hundreds of thousands of homes in Southern California. The web site is www.geothermal.com.
These are the highlights of the east side of the sea. You could run through it all in a day or two but the more time you spend in this wondrous part of California, the more you will find to spark your interest.
Sonny Bono Salton Sea NWR Unit 1 is the southern most point of the Salton Sea. To drive to the west side of the Sea, take Walker Road to Baker, turn right to Bannister and follow the road to CA86 and 78 north towards Indio.
Points of interest
Salton Sea State Recreational Area 760-393-3059
Visitor Centre: Open weekends 760-331-9944
Sonny Bono Salton Sea NWR 760-348-5278 Visitor Centre open daily in wintertime
Bat Caves: ATV trail out from Hot Mineral Springs road
Burrowing Owl Condos along Walker Road, east of Sonny Bono Salton Sea NWR Unit 1—Greatest number of bird species from October to May.
Camping in this area
Salton Sea State Recreation Area: 760-393-3059 Several areas are now closed but there are still many large, beautiful spots to camp near the Visitor Centre
Bashfords Hot Mineral Spa: 760-354-1315
Glamis North KOA: 760-354-1010
Bat caves trail
Fountain of Youth 888-800-0772 Resort with many amenities
Slab City (no phone): Free, just pull into an empty spot
Directions:
From I-10 and Indio, east to CA111, south arriving at the northern end of the sea. Drive south.
From Yuma or San Diego, take I-8 to Vendel Road, arriving at the southern end of the Sea. Drive north to Sonny Bono Salton Sea NWR Unit 1. This route will be the reverse of the sights above, going from Sonny Bono Salton Sea NWR up towards Indio.
